气象球在空中若有所思地晃来晃去。巨形天花玻璃勾勒出哥本哈根的天空。花朵在织物上摇动。微观宇宙中模特在台上如微风般走来。孔雀石的岩层纹路激起遐思去鸟瞰广袤起伏的田野。鹰群凌空掠过像被月光照耀着的织物。服装在一伸一屈间,冉冉升起活力和生机。自然和工艺一起生动,百啭千回的鸟鸣声与电音共奏一曲。
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Holzweiler 2023春夏系列灵感来源于对于降落伞的深度思考——那半悬在高空中的褶层庞大的降落伞。品牌将空气动力学与轻盈如羽毛并兼具保护性的材质和设计融合,转化为可日常穿着的纤细简约、富有悬垂感和自在轻松的成衣。防撕裂的细绳状褶饰围裹着身体,环绕旋转形成各种廓形。现实主义手法在这里得以体现,降落伞的金属背带、吊环和发射器被设计成叮当作响的金属扣环、扣件和珠宝。
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未来主义和游牧生活、实用主义和自在诗意即兴地在服装的剪影里生动。女士的裤装里设计一层薄纱般的衬裙分层,裸露的接缝设计灵感取自在运动中的降落伞的悬挂线。衣服上有蝴蝶结型梯状针织领带,背心上缝有保护垫,工装裤在大腿周围拼接有多个口袋。男装飞行员夹克采用光滑的纯素皮革制作,背心、干练的风衣和长裤等男士衣橱基本款都得到升华,而保龄球衫和整体的喇叭形剪裁则更有年轻活力。
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本季色彩搭配模拟了跳伞者滑向地面时会看到的大自然的色调:沙漠灰、石灰华、天青蓝、芫荽绿和孔雀石绿。格利奇·佩斯利涡旋纹和花卉图案看起来像是在高速运动。复古跑步主题灵感来自90年代的复古跳伞标志。在野生动物插画家史蒂文·迈克尔·加德纳设计的版画中,鹰在虚幻的背景中跃然出现在大家眼前。
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实用性设计与手工艺结合的细节碰撞,再次证明了Holzweiler对于手工艺的长期坚持和颂扬。蕉麻织物和西纳梅布飞行员头盔保护面部免受重力的伤害,而与女帽设计师Noel Stewart合作编织的台湾速织则可以起到防晒的作用。针织技术被精心运用在宽幅人字形条纹布拖鞋和精致的飞行员帽上。长长的可以打结、可以扭结也可以系带的流苏就像引人注目的转向绳,用来系紧风衣或从堆叠的肩包上垂下。服装的外观上设计有厚重的链子,耳环呈现同心圆的环绕形状。
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