原标题:Virgil“遗产”最终章再出必爆鞋款!LV男装继任掌舵人竟是TA?
作者:YOHO潮流志
众所瞩目的LV 2023春夏男装秀终于以全球直播的方式与大家见面了。这个如今风头迅猛,今年在已故创意总监Virgil Abloh的带领下脱颖而出,成为时尚大牌中玩转街头元素,跨界,融入广泛年轻受众的佼佼者。
而在Virgil的离世之后,LV近期主要的系列都是围绕Virgil的精神遗产展开探索与致敬,在还未正式公布全新的男装创意总监之前,Virgil短暂生命中留下的无数作品依旧能撑起品牌的半边天。
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2018.6.21 Virgil首个LV系列大秀拉开帷幕
一转眼四年了
后Virgil时代的LV,还会为我们带来怎样的惊喜?
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LV 2023年春夏大秀
一出手就知有没有
在北京时间6月23日晚8:30,Louis Vuitton全球同步直播了LV男装2023年的春季大秀。这场在巴黎举办的大秀开始之前就让世人充满期待。而最终不仅是本次释出的春季男装单品,整个秀场的筹备与过程中,也是惊喜不断。
满载Virgil回忆的单品
每个品牌的新系列大秀的重中之重,自然是秀场中让人目不暇接的单品,此番LV男装2023的春季系列大秀自然也不例外。
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童真,梦幻的场景,成为Virgil精神的延续。四年前,成功入主LV男装成为创意总监,Virgil首度达成自己的梦想,而他所坚持定调的主题,也都围绕着童年之梦,纯洁,趣味且充满着他天马行空的无尽想象。
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标志性的童年纸飞机
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如同玩具色系搭配的配饰
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充满童真的卡通针织衫
这些四年前Virgil亲手在LV种下的种子,即便在他离开之后,依然向阳而生,将他丰沛的精神与设计特质完整保留,且由这群与他长期共事的老伙计们持续发散,在阳光下绽放地格外强烈。
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鞋底细节加厚并增加鞋身配饰的新Trainer
鞋款方面,除了延续大热鞋款LV Trainer的设计,增加了新色和高帮版本之外,还有一款疑似鞋套鞋的洞洞鞋推出,以及当下流行的肥大复古滑板鞋,都颇受关注,我们也将在后续文章中带来更具体的鞋款分析与搭配方案。
秀场场地的回忆杀
在本次大秀的场地布置,同样也是充满着Virgil精神的回忆杀。
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从邀请预告的概念看出
主舞台的设计将会是亮黄色与红色的搭配
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现场呈现出的秀场视觉效果
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秀场上的彩虹色长飘带
秀场布置中最富巧思的不仅有相当具有Virgil时期LV男装设计元素的童趣感。玩具车跑道的外形设计,亮黄色T台与红色LV球型装置在阳光下格外亮眼。尤其在彩虹长飘带被带出时,大家的思绪讯速被拉回Virgil的首个LV系列的彩虹设计,算是画上首尾呼应的圆满句号。
Kendrick Lamar制造的惊喜
LV男装每次秀场周边总是星光熠熠,而本次2023春季男装大秀,风头都聚焦在Kendrick Lamar的惊喜现身与演出上。
Kendrick Lamar本次秀场演出可谓惊艳,献唱新专热单“Savior”,” “Rich Spirit”与 “Count Me Out,最后再在Virgil Forever的念白中以“N95”收尾。在歌曲演唱与喃喃自语的旁白之间,对于Virgil以及他所留下的设计艺术遗产充满无限追思,观者无不动容。
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Kendrick看秀的造型也可谓是封神之作,荆棘皇冠搭配LV定制的西装开领卫衣,而全身的内搭与配饰也均来自LV与Tiffany & Co。。
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坐在超模Naomi Campbell与经纪Dave Free中间的K.Dot
圣音宛若天上来
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那些曾经耀眼的瞬间
Virgil Forever
四年弹指一挥间,从上任LV男装的创意总监,到星光突然陨落,Virgil用短暂的生涯创造了无数值得回味的瞬间。
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Virgil打造的LV男装首个系列2019春夏
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滑手Lucien Clarke参与走秀
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Kid Cudi
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Playboi Carti
奢侈品的秀场上,Virgil力邀自己的明星朋友们参与走秀,不仅赚足流量,也正式宣布了曾经一度高高在上的奢侈品牌正式拥抱街头,拥抱流行文化的决心,为之后不同大牌先后跨界街头潮流定调。
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Virgil与Ye
秀后Virgil与Kanye相拥而泣的画面,也成为时尚圈的传世经典瞬间,代表着一个新时代的来临,而浪潮的发起者在那时真正做到了顶峰相见。其后,Virgil的LV生涯攀升速度更为惊人,打造无数时尚圈的里程碑。
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LV TRAINER绝对称得上是Virgil入主LV
打造球鞋的集大成之作
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引得众星上脚的LV TRAINER胜在复古的鞋型干净百搭,因为鞋身设计的简约属性,更能加入更多配色选项,拥有无限的搭配可能,不论是休闲正装混搭,还是奢华街头风格都能轻松驾驭,可以说是一己之力为时装大牌街头化拓宽道路。
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与滑手Lucien Clarke联合打造的LV滑板鞋
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2021 LV男装大秀“巡演”又是名场面
2021年正当疫情肆虐,然而Virgil主导的LV逆势而上,将全新的男装成衣用集装箱装载,不远万里前往世界各地进行“巡回”走秀,不仅收获同类品牌中最高的讨论度,也让每处看秀的人们更加身临其境,对于做到极致的童趣概念与设计拥有沉浸式理解。
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Virgil为这个企划定调的主题‘漂流瓶’:利用多彩且多元的元素展现出自身和品牌设计的多面性和包容性,同时欲将设计理念和单品在巡回展览的过程中与所到之处风土人情产生结合。
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上海秀场的舞龙
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东京秀场具备日本特色的超大型充气玩偶
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2021秀场中最具代表性的两大元素
玩偶元素与欧普视觉艺术是这次大秀的视觉主旋律,Virgil与团队的巧思将玩味童真的构想与扭曲的空间交织,营造出一个既真实又迷幻,且两不冲突的世界,这样的方式确实需要在现场,以大量的实体装置呈现,才能给予LV的粉丝与Virgil的拥趸最极致的感官享受。
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Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1
是Virgil临走之际的余火
当然,Virgil的LV生涯中还有数不尽的高光时刻,他在有限的生命中持续不断地输出,而与他共事的团队在其离世后打造的系列不仅将他的精神内核传承,更是凸显出浓浓的人情味,让Virgil在LV生涯的夏日终曲感伤之余又多了一丝温馨。
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继承者们
谁将执掌LV男装航空母舰
最近,除了致敬Virgil的大幕徐徐落下,关于LV男装设计总监的继承者将会是谁的讨论也开始甚嚣尘上。而其中,呼声最高的便是设计师Martine Rose。
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Martine Rose的作品个人风格强烈
英国-牙买加女设计师Martine Rose将汲取自嘻哈、锐舞、朋克等亚文化场景中的元素在服装上呈现,个性、反叛、中性的个人风格成为其设计的关键调性,同时她也是爆款制造机。
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Drake
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Rihanna
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Lil Baby
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Dua Lipa
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Kendall的Martine Rose小包
当然,Martine Rose的联名中也不乏颇具先锋设计感的单品,比如此前与Nike联名推出的Nike x Martine Rose Air Monarch IV,臃肿的外形加在老爹鞋上引发争议,结果二级市场价格却是后知后觉地水涨船高。
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辨识度很高的Nike联名
当然除了Martine Rose之外,有传言称UNDERCOVER主理人高桥盾也是LV男装创意总监的有力竞争者。
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至于最后谁将继承LV男装,掌舵这艘炙手可热的航空母舰?还是等待官方的消息吧。如果是你,最希望看到哪位设计师入主LV呢?
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