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《对话时尚圈》第15集-安娜温图尔怎看中国时尚力量

2015-01-11 22:49:00 来源:新浪时尚 收藏本文

  1月8日,在北京故宫博物院举办的美国大都会博物馆2015年服装艺术部春季特展“中国:镜花水月”发布会后,新浪时尚专访了大都会艺术博物馆服装艺术部策展人Andrew Bolton 先生、《Vogue》美国版主编Anna Wintour女士。

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 (以下为文字实录)

  Wangyi:Hi Anna and Andrew, this is SINA Fashion. Welcome both of you coming to China to announce the Theme of this year’s Met Gala and Exhibition. The topic "Chinese Whispers: Tales of the East in Art, Film and Fashion " is truly meaningful and thought provoking。

  王屹:Anna and Andrew你们好,我们是新浪时尚。欢迎你们来到中国,举办The Met Gala(纽约大都会博物馆)的盛大发布会。这次展览主题是“中国传说:东方艺术、电影和时尚的故事”这是如此有意义并令人深思。

  Wangyi:The topic "Chinese Whispers." is truly meaningful and thought provoking.What made you set the China theme?Why do you choose China as next years’ gala theme?

  王屹:为什么你会选择中国作为明年春季特展主题?

  AndrewI think it is quite a focus on chinaIntense focus, or more intense. So many designers achieve to show capsule collectionsin china, Chanel, DIOR, Valentino, etc. I wanted to really look into the history of fashion engagement with china, really from the present dating back through the early 17th century, and could be the ON-GOING dialogue between the east and the west. So that is the really focus of the exhibition

  Andrew我认为现在大家越来越把目光投向中国。许多设计师会都在在设计作品中掺入中国元素,比如香奈儿、迪奥、瓦伦蒂诺等品牌。所以我想要认真地研究一下跟中国时尚的联系,其实早在17世纪早期就有体现,并且这种东西方的对话交融至今仍存。这就是这次展览的主旨所在。

  Wangyi: (To Anna)Is this also your choice?

  王屹:(问Anna)你也是这么想的么?

  Anna: No, it’s entirely the province of the Costume Institute and the curators. I am just here to support the museum and help organize the opening dinner。

  Anna:不,这些都是艺术馆服装部的功劳,我会协助博物馆的工作,给开场宴会帮帮忙。

  Wangyi: On this morning’s launch ceremony, the exhibition’s Art Director Wong Kar-wai interpreted the theme as the eastern moon in the western water. So you have a ny comment on that?

  王屹:在今天上午的启动仪式,展览的艺术总监王家卫诠释了主题 “镜花水月”。对此有何评论?

  Anna: He (Wong Kar-wai)is going to be the artist director of the exhibition and very involved with Andrew on the visual side of the show, one of the big part of the exhibition is the influence of Chinese film on fahion ,and he with Andrew put together some wonderful clips this morning。

  Just looking in that magnificent setting board, I think all of us there , you know how important the exhibition is going be and how influential Chinese flim has been on fashion designers worldwide for over 100 years。

  Anna:(王家卫先生)将担任大都会博物馆服装艺术部2015春季特展的艺术总监,并且在特展的视觉方面跟Andrew会有深入的合作。这次展览很大的一部分是中国电影对中国时尚的影响,他俩以蒙太奇的方式呈现了将贯穿整个展览的电影片段。

  光看那绚丽的展示屏,你就能想象当场的我们能意识到这次展览有多么有意义,中国电影在过去的100年里是如何影响全世界对于东方文化元素的设计观念。

  Andrew: I think Kar-wai particularly has such a poetic voice and his visual sense is so refined. <In the mood for Love> has a huge impact on western designers. So for us he was the obvious choice to be the art director of this exhibition

  我觉得在王家卫先生用如此的诗意阐释得如此到位,他的电影《花样年华》对西方的设计师有巨大的影响,所以他担任此次特展的艺术总监再合适不过。

  Wangyi: Chinese Whispers is really an interesting term. It seems like there’s a concept of “misunderstanding” in it. Things usually turn more attractive because of distance and misunderstanding。

  王屹:中国传说真是一个有趣的词。好像包含“误解”的概念。事情通常由于距离和误解而变得更具吸引力。

  Andrew: I think it’s more about “lost in translation”. Chinese Whispers was a British parlor game, which somebody would whisper a word or a sentence in somebody’s ear around circle by it’s time completely , it is lost in translation . So I think Chinese Whispers is in a way was looking the sort of the quite complex culture and attraction between east and west, for centuries. One of the examples I quote this morning about Chinese Whispers was Chinese blue and white porcelain(青花瓷), which began in Ming Dynasty ,and was exported to the west, the Netherlands. And gradually it was reinterpreted, and then reinterpreted to china. So it’s a great whisper, something you wish to do it. It was a very active dialogue between east and west. So initially we thought Chinese Whispers was an accurate title of the exhibition, but it proved quite difficult to convey that idea visually ,So we changed to “The Mirrors Through the Looking Glass" which held the same idea of being lost in translation, and will be a more easier term to understand。

  Anna: Little bit more concrete。

  Andrew:我认为感觉就像“迷失于表达”,中国传说其实就是英国有一种室内游戏,我把一个词或一句话传到你耳里,你再去传给别人听。这样一轮又一轮的传下去,传出来的东西就和以前不一样了。所以在我看来,这个游戏几十个世纪以来都是在寻求西方和东方之间一种复合的文化和魅力。比如今天早上我引用的关于青花瓷的例子。它起源于明朝,后来传到了荷兰、英国这些西方国家,在那里这个被重新释义,然后在中国又被释义一遍。这就是人们想要的'whisper'。那时候东西方的交流非常频繁。最初我们以为中试流言就是将原本的意思歪曲,但是现在看来,我们不能只从字面上理解。

  所以,后来我们换了一个词语来表达它:“窥镜”。同样是表达误解和重新释义,但更容易被大众理解。

  Anna:这更具体一点。

  Wangyi: Anna ,for you personally, from your perspective, to what degree the Chinese art, films, craftsmanship or its aesthetic tradition have inspired and influenced the Western artists and fashion designers?

  Anna: Well ,designers has been influenced by china for such a long time …

  王屹:Anna,从你个人来说,从你的角度来看,在何种程度上的中国艺术,电影,工艺或它的美学传统,启发和影响了西方艺术家和时装设计师?

  Anna: 设计者被中国影响了很长一段时间.。。

  Andrew: The earlies piece we have is in late 17th century, but the dialogue was right back to the Roman Empire , with the export of Chinese silk to the west 。

  Andrew:我们最早的一件藏品可以追溯到17世纪晚期,所以我们的对话就要回到罗马帝国时代,那会儿中国就已经开始向西方出口丝绸。

  Anna: you know when it moved through to much current designers like Gautier Galliano McQueen.I think designers have always been influenced by China ,its romanticism and its fantasy. That’s what Andrew is going to explore in the exhibition. I am sure you’ll understand the exhibition is gonna take place throughout the Asian Gallery, so in a way that the costume themselves are going to be placed in this marvelous context: both art and objects and costume.

  Anna:目前很多设计师比如Jean Paul Gaultier、John Galliano、Alexander McQueen,etc。我觉得这些设计师都会从东方文化中汲取灵感,我认为设计师总是会被中国元素影响的,它那么浪漫那么梦幻。我想这也是Andrew在这次特展中想要探讨的主题,我相信你一定能了解这样的展览将在亚洲艺术馆举办,服装、器物、艺术品一并呈现,彼此交相辉映。

  Andrew: I think the most interesting part about that is, you can see that the Chinese objects offer a context ora sense of history to the Chinese fashion, and at the same time Chinese fashion offers another way accessing Chinese art. So this is a wonderful way the history of china sort of enlightening the present and the present enlightening the past. So it is a great dialogue between the past and the present, and between the east and the west

  Andrew:我觉得最有趣的是中国的器物拥有一种历史感与现代感的融合,同样,中国的时尚是提供了另一种方式反映的中国艺术。用这种方式,中国的历史和现在极好地交融一体,互生互动。因此,它是东方和西方之间的精彩的对话。

  Wangyi:The exhibition will also focus on images of Chinese women in movies. When we talk about Chinese women, what comes first in your mind?

  王屹:本次展会的重点还有电影中中国女性形象。当我们谈论中国女人时,你脑海中首先想到什么呢?

  Anna:Beauty

  Anna:美。

  Wangyi: From those movies, we may see a sea change of the Chinese women in the past century, a shift from subordinated family-devoted role to a self-awakening individual gaining more and more social power. How feminism plays in this process?

  Andrew: I think both in the West and China, it’s all about the story of increasing emancipation of woman, it’s not a particularly story related in china, it’s all about the increasing freedom of women. I think one of the garments in the exhibition, particularly expresses of Chi-pao, which was a garment really a symbolism of modernism, a symbol of woman emancipation. That’s certainly something we discuss when it come to an element of the exhibition。

  王屹:从这些影片,我们可以看到在过去的一个世纪的中国妇女翻天覆地的变化,从在传统家庭中扮演的是一个次要角色,转变成一个自我觉醒了的独立个体,并且拥有越来越高的社会地位,在这个过程中女性主义发挥着怎样的作用?

  Andrew:西方和中国一样,都经历了女性解放的过程,不单单是中国本身。女性越来越自由,你看我们特展中展出的那样旗袍,多么能体现现代美、现代女性的解放。我们当然会在展览中探讨这样的主题。

  Wangyi: What does feminism mean to fashion?  

  Anna: If you look at the history of fashion ,it reflects the history of women. there is no question whether it’s from the 20th ,the shape-change, or after post-war, again everything changed. Fashion never operates in a vacuum, It’s always in a historical context. That’s one of the most fascinating thing, it’s always about Andrew’s exhibition, they always tell a story, as fashion dose itself。

  You know fashion over the last many many years it’s reflected the change in woman’s life, their position , their independence。

  王屹:女性在时尚史中扮演了怎样的角色?

  Anna:纵观时尚史你会发现这根本是一部女人的历史。看从20世纪开始衣服廓形的变化就知道,二战之后很多东西都在改变,时尚不是孤立地发展,是跟历史有必然关联的。这就是它很迷人之处。你可以丛Andrew的展览中看到所有的展品都有它的故事正如时尚本身,过去很长一段时间,时装反映了女人的生活,她们的地位、独立性的变化。

  Wangyi: Anna, you have a worldwide influence on fashion and celebrity lives. How do you feel as a woman in such a big power?

  Anna: I don’t think it that way.I simply look on it that I am very lucky that I have such a fantastic platform, you know both with the museum and Condé Nast. I am therefore able to help people whether they work in fashion or in other areas. And I think that’s the most important thing for me that I am in a position able to help people。

  王屹:你在全球的时尚圈都颇具影响力 作为一个坐拥如此大权利的女人你感觉如何?

  Anna:我认为自己非常的幸运能有跟博物馆跟康泰纳仕集团,这样好的平台合作的机会。我也能借此帮助其他想在时尚或其他领域有所作为的人,这对我才是最重要的。

  Wangyi: Was fashion your childhood dream?

  Anna: I think I ‘ve always been interested in journalism .My father was a journalist , I come from a background of newspapers, so it was something that I was very interested in growing up. It grew from journalism and being able to explore also other different areas using the platform I am so lucky to have。

  王屹:时尚是从小的梦想么?

  Anna:我一直对传媒很感兴趣,我父亲是一位新闻工作者。我在报业媒体的氛围中长大,这为我提供了很多便利,因为我可以也愿意用所幸拥有的平台,去探索不同领域的事情。

  Wangyi: You wanna say something to the young people hoping to enter the fashion world?

  Anna: I think it’s so encouraging to see how many students today at all the great fashion college are Chinese and how well they are all doing. What I find so exciting about that is the future fashion is gonna arise in this country. Because I see the interesting talent and dedication in those young students。

  王屹:给想要进入时尚圈的年轻人一些意见吧

  Anna:我很高兴看到在如今那么多优秀的服装学院中有很多学生来自中国他们做的那么出色,我更兴奋的是看到在未来中国时尚领域即将发生的变化。因为我看到那么多有意思的有才华的并且十分勤奋的年轻人。

  Wangyi:I wish you a very successful gala and exhibition。

  王屹:预祝展览顺利举办。

  Anna&Andrew :Thank you,of cause。

  Anna&Andrew:谢谢,一定的。

文章关键词: 安娜温图尔 美国大都会博物馆 Anna Wintour Andrew Bolton

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