SINA FASHION EXCLUSIVE SERIE: FASHION LEGENDS
Part 3: MARPESSA HENNINK
Photos "Sicily" by FerdinandoScianna for Dolce & Gabbana
Marpessa sultry, sexy yet vulnerable beauty was so perfect forDomenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana that she famously inspired theduo their first sicilian fantasy (shot in 1987 by famed Magnumphotographer Ferdinando Scianna). That campaign is to this day thedefining essence of the brand。
Discovered as a teenager in her native Holland Marpessa started asa "print model". Her beautiful green eyes and pouty lips werequickly everywhere in ELLE, Marie Claire or Glamour in the 80s andearly 90s but her real strenght was the catwalk。
她主导着T台。她因其性感柔美的超女人台步增强了服装的魅力，每年两次的时装周(纽约、米兰、巴黎)几乎就是她的天下。满满的行程安排，设计师和经纪人让她在T台和排练(穿插很多派对)中难以平衡。她为很多大牌走过秀，如KarlLagerfeld's Chanel, Montana, Alaïa, Ungaro, Calvin Klein,RoccoBarocco等等，当然，绝对少不了Dolce & Gabbana!
Onthe catwalk she dominated. She was famous for her sensual andfeline 'walk' that gave the clothes an extra push and the fashioncircuit (New York, Milan, Paris) was her momenttwice a year. Designers and agents made her juggle an impossibleschedule between catwalks and rehearsals (with a dose of partying)to work with all of them. She walked Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel,Montana, Alaïa, Ungaro, Calvin Klein,Rocco Barocco... etc...and ofcourse Dolce & Gabbana!
Claude Montana和Azzedine Alaïa每一季都会预定Marpessa走秀，但是她需要十分小心地把自己的预定表从易怒的Alaia面前藏起来，反之亦然。
Claude Montana and Azzedine Alaïa were booking her from season toseason but she had to be careful and hide her bookings from thecoleric Alaia to the moody Montana and vice-versa。
Photo by Bénédicte Bro at Intergallery.cn
The problem was that these two designers hated each other,so officially if one model was 'walking' for one she could not be'allowed' to walk for the other. A notion that is totallyridiculous today!
Photos "Sicily" byFerdinando Scianna for Dolce & Gabbana
Now, it would be impossible for a designer to impose such aridiculous ban unless he was willing to pay quite a lot of money toinsure exclusivity. But, these were different times, Marpessa andthe other girls had to hide their bookings to make sure the sillyjealousy of the big designers would not block them from working.Azzedine's catwalk lasted a whole week (paid in clothes butessentially free work!) but his cabine was prestigious. ClaudeMontana was one highly-visible show paid in cash. The choices weredifficult for the young models。
Between Tokyo, New York andParis, for many years she was everywhere but the brand that trulygave her a home is Dolce & Gabbana. Their first print campaignis now legendary.Shot in black and white (in the middle of thecolorful 80s) The photographer Ferdinando Scianna quietly followedMarpessa in a small sicilian town dressed in beautiful simplemonochromatic clothes. The success was immediate and the brand waslaunched. Those mesmerizing images are reallyiconic and recently became a book。
It was such a relief from the high-energy pictures anddetails-heavy clothes of the 80s that this campaign instantlybecame iconic.Even people that know nothing about fashion knowthose photos。
Iconic image of Marpessa by Scianna。
Today Marpessa, a close friend of both designers is a brandambassador for Dolce & Gabbana. She travels all over the worldwith their Alta Moda collection presenting it from Dubaï to NewYork or Paris bringing her laughter, glamour and realness to thesecouture events and presentations。
I loved the imagesI took of her when I worked for Alaia, and I remembered herlaughing and being part of the 'cool girls' in the cabin. We wereboth friends with Caroline Spierings and I thought about Marpessaoften in the last few years, wondering where she was and if she wasallright. Recently I found her on Instagram and I realised that shehad been busy living in Ibiza and Italy and becoming the mother ofAriel, a most-beautiful little girl she nicknamed"Mini-me"。
What I think I respect most about Marpessa today is how fiercelyfabulous and natural she is! In a world where her former colleaguesCarla Bruni and Linda Evangelista have become so plastic they looklike freaky aliens Marpessa has the balls (and style) to beherself。
She is famous in Italy, photographed by street bloggers thatrecognise beauty and style when they see it and travels whileraising her daughter as a single mom. Her favorite hashtag oninstagram is #lovemylife
Well done my dear! Well done indeed!
Intergallery.cn in Beijing. Shot on October 21st 2014.
'Marpessa' from the DAMAGED collection of images by Bénédicte Broat Intergallery.cn
A bientôt for another part of the serie"LEGENDARY MODELS"。
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