传奇超模：MARPESSA HENNINK

2014年10月23日11:30 时尚专栏作者：gabrielle-in-北京我有话说

　　新浪独家系列：传奇超模人物系列

　　第三弹：Marpessa Hennink

　　SINA FASHION EXCLUSIVE SERIE: FASHION LEGENDS

　　Part 3: MARPESSA HENNINK

　　摄影师FerdinandoScianna为品牌杜嘉班纳拍摄的名为“西西里”的照片

　　Photos "Sicily" by FerdinandoScianna for Dolce & Gabbana

　　“秀场女伯爵”"The CatwalkContessa"。

　　Marpessa激发了“西西里幻想”系列(摄影师FerdinandoScianna于1987年拍摄)的灵感，她娇弱性感的美完美迎合着品牌杜嘉班纳。其广告大牌定义了如今独家版纳的品牌核心。

　　Marpessa sultry, sexy yet vulnerable beauty was so perfect forDomenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana that she famously inspired theduo their first sicilian fantasy (shot in 1987 by famed Magnumphotographer Ferdinando Scianna). That campaign is to this day thedefining essence of the brand。

　　在家乡荷兰被星探发现从而成为了“平面模特”。Marpessa绿色眼眸和微翘上扬的嘴角让她迅速成为了80年代至90年代初的各大时装杂志如ELLE、MarieClaire和Glamour的封面，但是她的绝对优势还是在秀场T台上。

　　Discovered as a teenager in her native Holland Marpessa started asa "print model". Her beautiful green eyes and pouty lips werequickly everywhere in ELLE, Marie Claire or Glamour in the 80s andearly 90s but her real strenght was the catwalk。

　　她主导着T台。她因其性感柔美的超女人台步增强了服装的魅力，每年两次的时装周(纽约、米兰、巴黎)几乎就是她的天下。满满的行程安排，设计师和经纪人让她在T台和排练(穿插很多派对)中难以平衡。她为很多大牌走过秀，如KarlLagerfeld's Chanel, Montana, Alaïa, Ungaro, Calvin Klein,RoccoBarocco等等，当然，绝对少不了Dolce & Gabbana!

　　Onthe catwalk she dominated. She was famous for her sensual andfeline 'walk' that gave the clothes an extra push and the fashioncircuit (New York, Milan, Paris) was her momenttwice a year. Designers and agents made her juggle an impossibleschedule between catwalks and rehearsals (with a dose of partying)to work with all of them. She walked Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel,Montana, Alaïa, Ungaro, Calvin Klein,Rocco Barocco... etc...and ofcourse Dolce & Gabbana!

　　Claude Montana和Azzedine Alaïa每一季都会预定Marpessa走秀，但是她需要十分小心地把自己的预定表从易怒的Alaia面前藏起来，反之亦然。

　　Claude Montana and Azzedine Alaïa were booking her from season toseason but she had to be careful and hide her bookings from thecoleric Alaia to the moody Montana and vice-versa。

　　摄影师：Benedicte Bro

　　Photo by Bénédicte Bro at Intergallery.cn

　　问题是，这两个顶尖的设计师互相看不惯对方，所以通常情况下，一位模特为其中一位设计师工作的话，就不能为另外一位设计师工作。对于现在来说，这太荒唐了！

　　The problem was that these two designers hated each other,so officially if one model was 'walking' for one she could not be'allowed' to walk for the other. A notion that is totallyridiculous today!

　　摄影师FerdinandoScianna为杜嘉班纳拍摄的“西西里”系列照片

　　Photos "Sicily" byFerdinando Scianna for Dolce & Gabbana

　　如今，对于发布这样荒唐的禁止令在设计师当中已经是不可能的了，除非设计师愿意支付更多的金钱确保模特的专一性。但是，过去与现在还是有不同的，对于嫉妒心过高的大牌设计师，Marpessa和其他的小姐妹们必须得才起来自己的预定卡，以防自己从此之后接不到工作。Azzedine的秀要持续整整一周(以服装支付模特)，但是他的秀是最受尊敬的且私密的。相对而言，ClaudeMontana的秀则曝光率更高，而且他是以现金支付模特的。对于年轻的模特们来说，这是很难的抉择。

　　Now, it would be impossible for a designer to impose such aridiculous ban unless he was willing to pay quite a lot of money toinsure exclusivity. But, these were different times, Marpessa andthe other girls had to hide their bookings to make sure the sillyjealousy of the big designers would not block them from working.Azzedine's catwalk lasted a whole week (paid in clothes butessentially free work!) but his cabine was prestigious. ClaudeMontana was one highly-visible show paid in cash. The choices weredifficult for the young models。

　　东京、纽约或巴黎，那些年间她几乎走遍全球，然后真正给予她一个家的品牌只有Dolce& Gabbana。他们第一次合作的广告大片如今已是传奇。黑白胶片，摄影师FerdinandoScianna静静地跟随着Marpessa漫步西西里的小城，她只穿着简单的纯色服装。大片一举成功，品牌也从此扎根。这些极具吸引力的照片非常具有代表性和时代性，而且近期已经发表成书。

　　Between Tokyo, New York andParis, for many years she was everywhere but the brand that trulygave her a home is Dolce & Gabbana. Their first print campaignis now legendary.Shot in black and white (in the middle of thecolorful 80s) The photographer Ferdinando Scianna quietly followedMarpessa in a small sicilian town dressed in beautiful simplemonochromatic clothes. The success was immediate and the brand waslaunched. Those mesmerizing images are reallyiconic and recently became a book。

　　80年代拥有高能的照片和详细的服装细节的广告大片迅速成为时代模版绝对时尚界的安慰。即使那些不懂时尚的人也知道这些著名的照片。

　　It was such a relief from the high-energy pictures anddetails-heavy clothes of the 80s that this campaign instantlybecame iconic.Even people that know nothing about fashion knowthose photos。

　　Scianna拍摄的最有代表性的Marpessa的照片

　　Iconic image of Marpessa by Scianna。

　　现在的Marpessa，是两位设计师的亲密好友，而且也是杜嘉班纳品牌的代言人。带着他们AltaMonda系列她飞往全球，从迪拜到纽约，再到巴黎，她给这些文化和展示活动带去了欢笑、魅力和真实。

　　Today Marpessa, a close friend of both designers is a brandambassador for Dolce & Gabbana. She travels all over the worldwith their Alta Moda collection presenting it from Dubaï to NewYork or Paris bringing her laughter, glamour and realness to thesecouture events and presentations。

　　我很喜欢我为Alaia工作期间拍摄她的照片，我记得她的笑容，也记得她是后台里面的“酷女孩”之一。我们是CarolineSpierings的共同好友，在过去的几年里我经常想起她，想着她现在在哪里，她好不好。最近我在Instagram上发现了她，她住在伊比沙岛和意大利，有一个女儿叫Ariel，这个最美丽的小女孩儿的昵称是“MIni－me”。

　　I loved the imagesI took of her when I worked for Alaia, and I remembered herlaughing and being part of the 'cool girls' in the cabin. We wereboth friends with Caroline Spierings and I thought about Marpessaoften in the last few years, wondering where she was and if she wasallright. Recently I found her on Instagram and I realised that shehad been busy living in Ibiza and Italy and becoming the mother ofAriel, a most-beautiful little girl she nicknamed"Mini-me"。

　　我最尊敬Marpessa的一点是，如今她的美依旧强烈、自然！她之前的模特同事们例如Carla Bruni和LindaEvangelista由于太多的整容手术而看起来就像怪异的外星人一样，而Marpessa则依然做着自己。

　　What I think I respect most about Marpessa today is how fiercelyfabulous and natural she is! In a world where her former colleaguesCarla Bruni and Linda Evangelista have become so plastic they looklike freaky aliens Marpessa has the balls (and style) to beherself。

　　她在意大利很出名，很多街头博主认出她的美丽和风格，拍下她作为单身母亲带着自己的孩子旅游时的照片。她在社交网站上最喜欢用的标签是#lovemylife。

　　She is famous in Italy, photographed by street bloggers thatrecognise beauty and style when they see it and travels whileraising her daughter as a single mom. Her favorite hashtag oninstagram is #lovemylife